You want to make sure your birds are safe under extreme weather, heavy rain, and wind. A chicken coop will fulfill this. Or you already have that toolkit and scraps of wood in your house to create your how-to-build chicken coop from pallets. To learn more, let's find out below!
1. Plan the building
Choose the size of the chicken coop
Cages without outdoor cages:
The most basic type of cage consists of only the physical structure of the house. Chickens are kept in indoor spaces until someone specifically lets them out, leaving at least 5 square feet for each chicken.
Outdoor chicken coop: this type is a bit difficult to build compared to a simple coop, but it allows the chickens to have more space, optionally outside. Allow 2 to 3 square feet per chicken in the coop and at least 4 square feet per chicken when running outdoors.
Winter-only kennels:
This type is used to keep chickens indoors during the winter months. Since it's less likely that chickens will be allowed outside during the sad months, 7 to 10 square feet per chicken should be allowed. Usually laying hens require a nesting area of at least 1 square foot per 4 hens, as well as a nesting area of 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) per hen. The floor of the coop should be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) off the ground (a height that will help keep your chickens dry in wet weather).
Placement of the barn
Place the coop partially below a large tree, which provides shade in the summer and helps keep the chickens from overheating.
Sunlight encourages egg laying, so try not to place the coop in the direct shade. Alternatively, warm yellow light inside the coop can be used to increase egg production (white or blue light will not work).
Things to put in the barn
Usually, just a thick rod or a piece of wood hangs between the walls in the coop, and the tall perch will allow for extra space, like a comfortable sleeping spot for the chickens.
Nesting area: can be nested by stuffing straw or sawdust into boxes or baskets. If there is not enough nesting space, chickens will lay eggs on the ground, increasing the chances of them breaking. On average, each chicken will lay an egg for one to two days. The size of the nesting area should reflect both the number of chickens and how often you plan to collect eggs. Generally, one nesting area for every 4 to 5 hens.
However, other than the fact that tall nests will discourage predation, the height of the nest is not as important as the location. Make sure to place it in a clean, dry, and separate place from the barn area, otherwise, there is a risk of chicken droppings on your eggs.
Ventilation: Adding this system avoids diseases caused by rancid air. If you plan to build a closed, year-round barn, make sure to have small windows covered with wire to facilitate proper airflow.
Dust box: usually clean by dust bath method. To keep the chickens happy and odor-free, consider adding a few boxes filled with soil or sand.
Purpose of construction and use of chicken coop
A garage, barn, or even a large unused cot, can save some work and reuse as a chicken coop by adding the amenities mentioned above.
If you intend to be building a barn from scratch, choose a plan that fits your needs as described above.
Consider convenience: no matter how built, clean the chicken coop, and change food and water regularly. If you don't want to build a barn large enough to stand upright, look for some options that offer several options, like multiple "doors".
If not reusing the old structure, avoid wood that has been coated with lead paint or used to contain harmful chemicals that pose a risk to the health of both you and your chickens.
2. Floor and wall construction
Scale the measurements
With a basic barn measuring 4 feet (1.2 m) x 6 feet (1.8 m) (24 square feet of floor space). Therefore, needing more or less space, scale the measurements accordingly.
Construction of the floor
To make building and cleanup as easy as possible, start with a piece of plywood cut to the ideal size (4 feet x 6 feet). Make sure the plywood is between 1⁄2 inches (1.3 cm) and 1⁄4 inches (0.6 cm) thick.
If you're cutting plywood yourself, use a straight edge and an easy-to-see pen to create lines before cutting.
Screw in the frame. This holds the floor firmly, screw the 2x4 around the bottom circumference. Alternatively, it may also want to screw one through the center of the floor for added security. To ensure a tight joint at the corners, use a long hose clamp.
Build a solid wall
Make sure the only wall has no openings, as it is the easiest wall to build. Use a piece of plywood 6 feet (1.8 m) long, 1⁄2 inches (1.3 cm) thick. Screw the 2x2s into the underside of the vertical edges. Make sure the 2x2s stop 4 inches from the bottom of the plywood.
Connecting the floor to the wall
Then place the wall on the floor so that 4 inches (10.2 cm) of excess plywood covers the 2 × 4 on the underside of the floor, securing the wall in place using 1⁄2 inches (1.3 cm) screws and construction glue.
Making the front panel
1 and 1/2 inch screws and construction glue are recommended to attach a 4 foot (1.2 m) long piece of plywood 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) thick to the front of the barn. Screw the plywood into the 2x4 boxes on the bottom of the barn and the 2x2 on the solid side wall. Then cut the door open.
Plan to open the door first before cutting. Door openings should be 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) wide. Cut the height to your liking, but note that there should be 6 to 10 inches (15.2 to 25.4 cm) left between the edges of the door and the top and bottom of the plywood.
Let's use a Jigsaw to cut. It can provide the easiest and smoothest cutting. So when finished, reinforce the top of the door using a piece of wood scrap about 20 inches (50.8 cm) long and thick enough to attach using lots of screws and glue.
Build the back wall
You should attach the second 4-foot (1.2 m) piece of plywood to the back of the barn using the same method as the front panel. Then cut and reinforce the opening, again with the front.
Build the Last Wall
Using three smaller pieces of plywood. To start, cut two pieces of 2-foot (0.6 m) plywood and a 4- to 5-foot (1.2 to 1.5 m) piece of plywood that's 1/2 the height of your barn. . Then, attach the 2x2 to the underside in the vertical edges of the 0.6 m long piece of plywood. Doing this step again on the second 2-foot (0.6 m) piece of plywood.
For the other side, make sure the 2x2s stop 4 inches from the bottom of the plywood. This allows the plywood to hang down over the 2x4 on the underside of the floor.
Wall Mounting
At this point, you need to screw one 2-foot (0.6 m), longboard, right next to the front of the barn, and the other right next to the back. Attach the longer plate to the center of the 2-foot (0.6 m) long plate. Be sure to line up the edges with the tops of the 2-foot (0.6 m) slab so that the opening is close to the floor.
Then, continue to reinforce the center plate by attaching two pieces of wood chips where the plate joins the two side panels. Always make sure the scrap is the same length (vertically) as the center panel.
3. Roof construction
Gable cutting
The gable is the triangular piece of wood that rests on the front and back walls of the barn, supporting the roof. Therefore, both gables must be 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Use Jigsaw to cut the gables out of the 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) thick oriented fiberboard.
Continue using the angle finder to determine the exact elevation of the roof. If you don't have an angle finder, you can close your eyes to the yard.
Notching the gables: for the gables to fit correctly, it is necessary to make grooves where you reinforce the openings. If the wood used for the front is the same size as the back, the same cut can be made on both gables. However, if using scrap wood, you will need to make separate cuts for each gable.
Screw on the gable
Place the front gable on the inside of the front wall and attach it with construction glue and screws. Repeat for the rear gable. The gable must be sturdy once attached to the wall.
Construction of truss
Strengthen your truss by cutting a diagonal bar from 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) thick plywood. Cut it to gable-like numbers, and then screw it into 2x2s.
Notch the rafter
Once you have screwed the cross pin into the 2x2s, you can remove the clips. Place the truss in the center of the barn and mark where the side walls intersect with the 2x2s of the truss. A 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) notch should then be made in the wood where each mark is located. This will allow the truss to slide to the top of the side walls.
Making the roof
Let's match two pieces of 40-inch (101.6 cm) x 84-inch (213.4 cm) plywood with some cheap hinges. Always be sure to match them along the 84-inch (213.4 cm) sides so that the roof covers the entire chicken coop.
Next, place the roof over the barn. Check to see that there is a protrusion on both the front and back of the coop. The overhang is necessary for two structural and aesthetic reasons.
Construction of gable decoration
Mounting and finishing of the roof
Screw the roof to the truss and gable. Then add a cap to keep the roof weatherproof. Apply a layer of tar paper and cover with galvanized iron. Attach the tar paper with a pin and use the external feed screw to the galvanized roofing sheet.
4. Installing the door
Cutting wood
Use a well-finished medium-density fiberboard for doors. It depends on the chosen height of the chicken coop. Each door should be as high and half as wide as the open door.
Installing the door frame
Bolt 2x2 screws along each side of each door opening, along the tops. This provides certainty for screwing the door hinges.
Mounting the front doors
Screw in two hinges for each door, each about four inches from the top of the door and the other about four inches from the bottom. It should be noted that a third hinge directly in the middle may be required, depending on the height of the chicken coop.
Repeat the process
You can use the same measurements for the back of the barn, but be sure to take new measurements for the doors on the side of the barn.
Add closure
Brass snap hooks are an inexpensive, effective way to close a door, any closure will work, as long as it's not easily opened by common predators like dogs or skunks.
5. Raise the barn
Adding barn legs
Needs to be raised to give your flock extra protection from predators, keeping them dry in the rain or snow.
Use four 2x4s for the legs. Use the sturdy screws to attach them to the 2x4 holes in the bottom corner of the chicken coop.
Building a ladder
Attach 2x2s to 2x4s to form a ladder that makes it easy for chickens to use, while still being too narrow for predators. Attach the ladder with a small hinge.
Conclusion
Having shared that, you also prepare some things to stabilize your chicken coop. You should have paint protection against weathering. This will also make the coop more aesthetically pleasing. Moreover, the position opens windows or vents towards the east so that the morning sun wakes up the hens which will help both with egg production and overall flock happiness. Finally, you add wood shavings instead of a newspaper as well, a plant to the wood to make it more pleasing, and a snack for your chickens.
